Friday, July 23, 2010

BYOL: A Hearty Gazpacho



My earliest memories of gazpacho are not positive ones.

I have this vague recollection from when I was a little girl of my mother announcing that she was going to make a gazpacho, and setting to work merrily chopping and stirring. It's an exciting word, gazpacho, which if it didn't mean a chilled vegetable soup might mean a joyful dance, or maybe even a miracle (I can walk! It's a gazpacho!). A mom's enthusiasm is contagious, so I waited anxiously to try it.

Once it arrived at the table, I soon realized that this "gazpacho" had been dramatically oversold. It was, in fact, nothing more than a pile of chopped up vegetables. No chunks of sausage or chicken, no dumplings, nary an alphabet-shaped pasta. In short, it was the worst kind of soup, devoid of anything that might be of any interest to a six year old.

My mother is an excellent cook, so I'm sure that as gazpachos go, the ones she made were terrific. But the heat of the garlic and onion, its vegetal smell and bright, summery flavor, the tartness and acidity of the vinegar...these things were lost on me.

Luckily, my palate has matured over the past two decades and now I can appreciate this soup for everything that it is: packed with nutrients and antioxidants, low in fat and calories, and pungently flavorful. It's also very cheap to make (this recipe cost under $15) and doesn't require a stove or an oven -- no small thing during these dogs days of summer.

All of these qualities make it an excellent weekday lunch.

There are loads of gazpacho recipes out there, and they fall across a wide chunky-to-smooth continuum. The ones my mother made featured big chunks of tomato and cucumber in a vinegary, raw tomato broth; the one I made this week is a coarse puree. I like this recipe because the addition of bread gives the soup more body and makes it more filling than one containing just vegetables, which is a crucial consideration if you intend for it to stand on its own as lunch.



Hearty Gazpacho
Adapted from Bon Appetit

Serves 4

2 pounds large tomatoes, halved
1/2 pound country-style bread, crust removed, cut into 1/2-inch pieces (about 4 cups)
1 red bell pepper, seeded, diced
1 1/4 cup chopped peeled English hothouse cucumber
3/4 cup chopped red onion
1/4 cup Sherry wine vinegar
1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
1 garlic clove, minced
1/2 teaspoon ground cumin
1/2 teaspoon paprika
1 cup water
Low-fat sour cream to garnish

Working over a bowl and strainer, gently squeeze tomato halves to release seeds and juices. Strain juices, pressing on solids to extract as much juice as possible. Discard seeds. Chop tomatoes. Transfer chopped tomatoes and tomato juices to large glass bowl. Add next 9 ingredients. Let stand at room temperature 1 hour.

Puree gazpacho with 1 cup water in blender until smooth (work in two batches if necessary). Season with salt and pepper. Chill at least 2 hours and up to 1 day. Serve cold, with a dollop of sour cream.

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